Along the banks of the Chattahoochee, situated somewhere between serenity and salutations, lies a restaurant that manages to take my breath away every time I step upon its pristine grounds. Canoe, located just off Paces Ferry Road behind the backdrop of Atlanta, is a restaurant that manages to represent both the old and the new in their approach to fine dining and Southern cuisine.
My girlfriend and I spent our first “big” (as we called it) date at Canoe back in 2012, and we saw it only fitting that we should return for our second anniversary this past Friday. The ambiance of Canoe is mesmerizing; the restaurant looks equal parts rustic and modern in its approach to an atmosphere that is uniquely elegant in a city that is constantly changing. As you step outside the rush of the restaurant, you come upon a beautiful landscape interwoven with trails, an outdoor bar, and an expansive garden that grows all of the vegetables used by the restaurant in their dedication towards sustainable sourcing. As the waters of the Chattahoochee flow by, you can feel all of your anxieties and worries float away with it as you take in what can only be described as “The Canoe Effect.”
The natural feeling of the restaurant translates effectively well towards the cuisine of the restaurant. While not entirely modern by today’s standards, Canoe never feels dull in their approach to food and drinks. The wine list, one of the best in Atlanta, is updated often with new and exciting labels from all over the world. The cocktails feel both classic and modern at the same time; the Ward Eight, a classic rye cocktail blended with lemon juice and orange juice, is updated with a house-made pomegranate molasses that takes the drink to another level, while the B & E sour reinvents the whiskey sour with shaken egg whites and a splash of ruby port. Neither cocktail is new by bar standards, but the simple tweaks make them feel as if you are tasting them for the first time.
Ward Eight
B & E Sour
Cranberry-Walnut & Sourdough Bread
As you wait for you meal to be served, freshly-made breads are never more than a basket away, as hosts glide from table to table to offer you a refresher before each course. The service and attention to detail is extraordinary, as you are never left with an empty plate by your side and your water glass can never be more than half-full before it is filled again without you even realizing it. While the service makes it a priority to make you feel welcome, it is sometimes a bit too grandiose a gesture when your waiter or waitress is trying their very best to explain every formality of the restaurant as you try to order your meal. If you hesitate for even a second in ordering, you may find yourself waiting longer than expected as the same routine is being described to five other tables.
When the food does arrive, detail and skill play off of each other as each course becomes a culinary triumph, yet there is still the occasional hit or miss. The grilled Australian octopus would be a delightful appetizer to start with, yet is was heavily weighed down by the horseradish tomato broth and broccoli rabe that came with it. The bitterness of the broth and broccoli was too much for the mildness of the octopus, and the chorizo that was mentioned on the menu was barely noticeable. It was nice to see that the dish was affectionately split for my girlfriend and I, which again goes to show how well Canoe takes care of their guests.
Eat.Cook.ATL 